Position Title: Sr. Manager, Raw Materials, R&D
Reporting to: Director, Materials Innovation & Sourcing
SummaryThe Senior Manager, Raw Materials R&D leads the technical research and development engine behind the brand's fabric and materials innovation strategy. This role owns the science, testing, and execution that turn a concept - a new fiber blend, finish, treatment, or performance technology - into a viable, production-ready material. This person operates at the intersection of textile science, sustainability, and manufacturing feasibility, always mindful of established pricing matrices and price-point targets, running structured R&D projects from early-stage exploration through mill trials, testing, and hand-off to seasonal development. This is a hands-on technical leadership role requiring deep material science expertise, rigorous experimentation discipline, original creative instinct, and the ability to translate ambiguous creative or performance briefs into concrete, testable material solutions - while also originating new finish, wash, dye, and treatment concepts of their own.
Technical Research & Development- Lead structured R&D projects for new fabrics, fibers, finishes, dyes, washes, and treatments, from concept through feasibility, prototyping, and validation.
- Partner with the Director to translate innovation priorities and trend direction into defined R&D briefs, technical specifications, and project timelines.
- Bring an original point of view to finish, wash, dye, and treatment development - proactively proposing novel effects, techniques, and material concepts rather than only executing pre-defined briefs.
- Launch and manage the seasonal lab dip process - submitting, reviewing, and approving color development from mills to ensure accuracy, consistency, and on-time readiness ahead of bulk production.
- Develop new core fabric bases - foundational, reusable fabrics that anchor seasonal collections across multiple lines - balancing innovation against cost and price-point targets.
- Conduct hands-on experimentation with mills and technical partners on new fiber blends, sustainable substrates, performance technologies, and novel construction or finishing techniques.
- Evaluate emerging material technologies (bio-based fibers, recycled/regenerated inputs, low-impact dyeing and finishing, smart/performance textiles) for feasibility, cost, and brand fit, flagging price-point implications early so Design and the Director can weigh in before a concept advances.
- Maintain a pipeline of active R&D projects at varying stages of maturity, prioritizing based on innovation value, commercial viability, and calendar readiness.
- Document R&D findings, technical learnings, and trial outcomes to build institutional knowledge and inform future development.
Testing, Quality & Compliance- Own execution of material testing protocols (performance, physical, chemical, and regulatory compliance) in partnership with internal quality and external labs.
- Define testing requirements for new materials based on end-use application, risk profile, and product category.
- Troubleshoot performance, quality, or compliance failures during development and drive corrective action with mills and suppliers, applying aesthetic judgment on hand-feel, color, and texture outcomes alongside pass/fail test data.
- Ensure new materials meet brand quality standards and regulatory requirements before hand-off to seasonal development and production.
Mill & Supplier Technical Partnership- Build and manage hands-on technical relationships with mills, converters, and treatment/finishing partners to execute R&D trials.
- Travel to mills, fabric fairs, and trend shows to source new technical capabilities, vet supplier R&D capacity, and stay current on manufacturing innovation, as well as to scout aesthetic and trend inspiration that can feed new ideas into the R&D pipeline.
- Assess supplier technical capabilities and constraints, providing feasibility input that shapes what the Director and Design can realistically pursue.
- Support Sourcing/Purchasing in identifying, vetting, and onboarding new mill sources for core bases and R&D-stage fabric development.
- Negotiate trial terms, minimums, and timelines with suppliers for R&D-stage development.
Bridge to Seasonal Development- Transition validated R&D materials into the seasonal development calendar, working closely with category Sr. Managers and Development teams to ensure smooth hand-off.
- Provide technical specifications, sourcing documentation, and testing results needed for materials to move into commercial production.
- Confirm lab dips and core base development align with pricing matrix and margin targets before hand-off to seasonal development.
- Support Design and Development teams with technical troubleshooting on R&D-originated materials during their first seasons in the line.
- Maintain the technical (non-aesthetic) side of the Raw Materials library - specs, test data, and performance benchmarks for developed materials.
Team & Process Leadership- Establish R&D best practices, documentation standards, and project management processes that scale across fabric and materials development.
- Identify opportunities to apply AI and other technology to accelerate R&D cycles, testing analysis, and technical documentation.
- Manage R&D budget, lab/testing spend, and trial-related travel.
- Able to manage or mentor junior-level employees as needed.
In compliance with the New York City salary transparency requirements, the potential salary for this position is from $125,000 to $135,000, which represents a range commensurate with experience, knowledge, and skills required.
Requirements- Bachelor's degree in Textile Science, Textile Engineering, Materials Science, Chemistry, related field, or equivalent work experience; a portfolio or demonstrated record of original textile, finish, or treatment development is strongly preferred alongside technical credentials.
- 7+ years of experience in textile/materials R&D, technical development, or fabric innovation, with deep hands-on knowledge of fiber science, dyeing, finishing, and treatment technologies
- Demonstrated track record of taking materials from concept through testing to commercial production
- Demonstrated track record of originating novel finishes, washes, dyes, or treatments - not solely executing against briefs defined by others
- Working knowledge of costing structures and pricing matrices, with the ability to flag cost and margin implications of new materials early in the R&D process
- Experience managing lab dip submission, review, and approval cycles, and developing core/foundational fabric bases
- Strong working knowledge of textile testing standards, regulatory compliance, and chemical safety requirements
- Established relationships with mills, labs, and technical suppliers; comfortable running trials on-site
- Strong project management skills with the ability to run multiple R&D initiatives at different stages simultaneously
- Ability to translate creative or performance briefs into technical specifications and feasible execution plans
- Experience partnering cross-functionally with Design, Development, Merchandising, and Quality teams
- Comfortable operating in a fast-paced environment with shifting priorities and ambiguous early-stage briefs
- Regular travel to mills, fabric fairs, and trend shows, as well as overseas technical partner visits
